HowTo light up a wireless keyboard using neon-wire.

This is my desktop workspace. I like blue, and I got tired of the dark colored parts that I had to look at every day, using my computer.

It is nice to add lights to the computer, but as I keep it under the table, I rarely look at it. I do however look at the mouse and keyboard -. all the time. So I dreamed of lighting it up!  This is how I did just that.

 

As I had previously opened the Logitech Cordless Desktop Pro keyboard, I knew that I could not get  access underneeth the key by opening the keyboard. Thus I had to remove every key top.
I used a knife to lift the key straight up, well almost straight up, as I discovered it to be easier  to get the keys to seperate from the keyboard, if I lifted a bit more in one corner of the key.
    
To make it easier to get the keys in place again, I placed then on soem upside down tape on the desk, it turned out to be a good idea, as even though I later accidently pushed the keys, they did not get into disarray.

 

I test placed the wire, so see how far it would go. I had 6 feet of wire, and it covered the entire keyboard.

Holes had to be drilled between the groups of keys, as I only had access from the top of the keyboard.

I tried using super glue, but the version of super glue I had at hand, did not dry very fast (took more than five minutes!), so I enden up hot glueing the wire to make it say in place.

The wire is 2.3 millimeter thick, and that is as thick as can be allowed. I had to trim some of the edges off of the keys as I typed this text, as pushing some keys would make it stick or make a small "slam" sound as it would hit the wire. So on this type of keyboard, it is very important to get the wire snug to the base of the key base.

The last key group to be wired were the cursor-quick-move keys. On this picture the electric wire has not yet been soldered to the neon wire.
      
In this picture you can sort of follow the path of the wire.
     
My plan is to hide a battery operated neon wire converter inside the keyboard. To get the electric wire to run from the top of the keyboard front and to the inside of the keyboard body, it has to come apart. First all the screws on the outside (do not forget the one inside the battery compartment).
     
Next step: Remove the metal plate that support the plastic wireboard and the rubber spring system. I did not want to remove the circuit board if it could be avoided. It turned out to be enough to unscrew the one side of the metal plate.

With the metal plate loosened, I could lift it enough to get access to the blue wire I had soldered to the neon wire.

The handrest on this keyboard is completely hollow, so I dediced to store the converter and battery holder for the neon wire in the handrest. Here the blue wire exits the main keyboard case.

    
The red wire running along one side of the keyboard seems to be the antenna for the system.

     
The converter had a slight high pitch whine. As I expected this whine to come from the transformer, as some sort of vibration, I wondered if adding some glue to the converter would limit the vibration. I wanted to use epoxy cement, but had none in the drawer, so I went ahead using hot glue. It acctualy helped! So I filled it up as much as I could, and it got more and more silent. Some people may not mind the slight sound of the standard converter, but it strikes a nerve for me, so I wanted it as silent as possible.
The now almost solid converter.
    
SMD components are mounted on the underside of the circuit board of the converter. It is very compact. I had to sort of pump some of the hot glue into the system, as the few components on the top side were mounted very, very close.
     
The battery case had a belt clip on the back. There is no need for the beltclip to take up valuable space in this mod.. When I removed the belt clip, I was however not able to screw the top and buttom of the battery case properly together again, the screw was too long. Some tight wraped scotch tape now holds it all together. As I have wraped the scotch tape a couple of times, it should last for a handfull of years.
    
The insides of the handrest, in the original dark color. A couple of stips of velcro hot glued to the topcover of the handrest should give a good hold on the battery/converter.
I may have to cut some finger holes into the buttom of the handrest, as I find my self unable to get the velcro to let go of the batterycase, for replacement of batteries. I'll do that tomorrow. It is getting to late today.
     

And there is light!

     

And it glows!!!

Even when it is completely dark in the room.

 

Things I would do different next time around:

  • I would use two converters, as the pitch of the converter increases with the length of the neon wire. And thus have 3-4 four feet of wire on each converter.
  • Probably use two or three feet more of wire, so there could also be a wire running around the perimeter of the keys.
  • And maybe add a neon wire to the outside of the keyboard, to sort of make the keyboard rest on light. I may still add this outside wire to this keyboard.
  • Make sure the wire is absolutely snug to the base of the keyboard, so I would not have to trim as many underside edges of keys